Azerbaijan, an epiphany

Log

I arrived in Baku, the Dubai-like capital, by train. Coming from Tbilis, I was pretty much expecting the same cityscape. Instead, the first things I saw as the train was approaching the station, were these:

azerbaijan baku Travel khinalug gobustan caucasus ateshgah skyscrapers

So, in the local guide's own words: "We have the oil. It's all oil-related money. There is no middle class. You're either rich or poor."

I noticed the tall and clean former communist buildings, dressed up facades with rotten interiors. It's all for the looks, failing to bring any benefit to the people living there.

Fun fact:

The Azeris changed their alphabet 4 times since 1918 (arabic, latin, kirillic, latin again), according to the empires that conquered the country. Parents not able to read what their children write

The Temple of Fire & Mountain of Fire @Ateshgah @Yanardag. Based on Persian inscriptions, the temple was used as a Hindu, Sikh and Zoroastrian place of worship. The temple ceased to be a place of worship after 1883 with the installation of petroleum plants and it was declared a state historical-architectural reserve. These two places are famous for the oil that oozes naturally from the ground and flames burn perpetually, fed by natural hydrocarbon vapours issuing from the rock.

Kids digging up warm nuts

Fun fact:

'The bigger the door, the more respected you are'

Day 2

"Women have to be at home by 10 pm. Men love them so much, they want them home at all times, taking care of the house & kids".

"Not being able to bear a son is ground for divorce. Many daughters are named 'Enough'/ 'this-is-the-last-one'.

Women don't go to pubs. IF they do, they are considered sluts. You can choose a partner with such reputation and be looked down to. However, if your family or friends recommend her, it's ok.

Parents still choose your partner and such relationships are long-lasting. Love relationships fail soon after marriage.

Yet, Azerbaijan is the least religious country in the area. They don't teach religion in schools.
On Ramadan, you can buy alcohol anywhere and sit on a bench in the park to drink it

The old city, its sandy buildings, high walls to protect against the mad winds and the place where 130 years ago the city ended, before the oil built the rest.

[There are two winds common to Baku: cold and rough Khazri, and mild and gentle Gilavar. The former is associated with negativeness, while the latter is associated with goodness, forming an important chain in Azerbaijani mythology and beliefs that is related to the struggle of Good and Evil - wiki source]

Day 3, the New Year's Eve. Everybody was outdoors, the seaside was flowing with people who had come to watch the fireworks of 2020. The clubs were full of men, maybe 2 or 3 women. The Azeri men dance beautifully, but I don't know about the women. It's a pity.

Day 4
To the highest point of Azerbaijan Caucasus and hopefully back, while our hardcore driver keeps his antique car on the edge of the abyss and laughing at our fear.
Later edit: The kamikaze lost a headlight & a mirror in a minor crash

Khinalug village, 2350m, located in the Greater Caucasus, high up in the mountains of Quba Rayon. Unfortunately, I didn't get the chance to take more than a glimpse at the peaks, before the clouds and the fog settled.

Walls of dung all over the village. When it's dry, they can burn it to heat the house. There's nothing else to burn, as nothing grows around.

Extremely isolated up a barren hill, surrounded by snowy mountain peaks (now shy in a dense fog). You can sleep and eat in this home. Moreover, they have wifi, so you can insta you food, like any spoiled tourist. It's business. Even the children work, selling woolen socks. They run happily in rubber slippers, herding sheep. I'm pretty sure this is the only family doing this kind of business here. I also bet tourists are so rare, they can't sell much, except mutton and/or milk in the market.

It's so cold, my phone battery froze to death.