Visual Stories: Iraq
Iraq is a beautiful country with a rich history that surpasses the warfare and violence that has subjugated the state in modern times. Iraq is home to the holiest of shrines and sites, and the visitation of these places is called "ziyarat". Through this visual series, I aim to also shed light on traditions in these holy places. Each image tells a story of it's own, and this project as a whole picks the highlights of art, religion, culture and identity through this journey in Iraq.
This is in the city of Samarra, and in the background is the golden dome of the shrine of Imam Ali an-Naqi and Imam Hasan al-Askari. Samarra had been an ISIS target and the dome was actually destroyed in 2006. It’s been rebuilt and in construction since. Samarra is a city of hope and major significance for Shiites. Beyond it being the city of this dome holding holy shrines, it is also the location for where the awaited savior Imam Mahdi for Shiites was believed to have been last seen and is the place where he is said to have gone into his hidden occultation. The city and bazaar life revolving around this shrine and city goes a long way to demonstrate the significance it has to Shiite nationalism in Iraq. While Samarra is considered to be under heavy watch due to previous terrorist attacks, people still live their day to day life here.
The double domed Al-Kadhimiya mosque of Kadhmain holds the shrines of Imam Musa al-Kadhim and Imam Muhammad al-Jawad, the 7th and 9th Shia Imams. It is a holy site visited and also holds the graves of well acclaimed Shia scholars. The city of Kadhmain gets its name from this mosque and the fact that it is the namesake of Imam Kadhim that is buried here. The bustle of people heading towards the shrine is a daily occurance. Not only did their presence and personalities shape the name of the city, Kadhmiyya, but they also are a major part in the Shiite “ziyarat” (visitation) experience. The presence of this shrine has shaped bazaar life and city life, as through the streets going directly towards these domes are shops and stalls entirely lined up.
Kadhimiyya Mosque • This is one of the clock towers and minarets on the masjid itself. Its designs are made of traditional Islamic art and Arabic inscriptions. I actually got this shot from right outside of the shrine in the bazaar.
Kadhimiyya Mosque • On the outer walls of the mosque are Arabic inscriptions of smaller Quran chapters. There were more lined up along the tiles but this was what I caught in the shot. These smaller chapters of the Quran are referred to as the 4 “Quls”, as each of them begin with “Qul” in Arabic. These are believed to be powerful verses and are often read in prayers and supplications for blessing and protection. The same script is often put up on walls and tapestries in homes as well.
Bazaars of Kadhmiyya -Baghdad • Bazaar culture is a huge part of Iraq and something that was prevalent in every shrine city we went to. They often, if not always, lined the way en route to the holy shrines and are a marketplace for everyone. Street vendors sell food, clothing, Islamic artwork, jewelry, and many more trinkets and items. In this image, a vendor sells traditional scarves, fabrics, and Iraqi foods and snacks. Often, for shop vendors like this one, selling food and items is a way of living and sustenance. This bazaar marketplace is often attractive to travelers visiting the shrines as it is a place to buy items associated with Shia iconography.
Bazaars of Kadhmiyya -Baghdad • One of the entrances of the shrine glows in the background. These shrines are a key location for vendors and sellers to make money, and they line up their stalls all over the streets leading up to the mosque. In every Iraqi city with a holy shrine is a vast bazaar. It's almost as if these shrines are source of life that Iraqis incorporate into their daily lives- from prayer to making a living. This particular alleyway represents the contrast of night life to the constant life of the holy shrine itself. At a certain point, while bazaar life is a fuel for city activity and money making, shops and stalls close down for the day and the streets darken. Following nightfall, the lights of these shrines are still glowing and bright, as seen by the entrance peeking up from the background.
Bazaars of Kadhmiyya -Baghdad • Shops and stalls close around 9-10 PM for the night, which is why the streets are not lit up with lights. I personally loved the darker scheme and the way these background lights glow.
This is one of the entrances to the shrine of Imam Ali in Najaf. The geometric patterns are a repetitive trend throughout Islamic architecture. The honeycomb muqarnas in the top of the arched entryway are an element of Persian architecture. Imam Ali is the first Shiite Imam and is highly revered in Islamic traditions for his wisdom, leadership, and strength as a warrior. Imam Ali is entirely foundational in Shiite tradition and faith. His position as the first leader for Shiites following the death of the Prophet Muhammad paved the way for the development of the Shiite school of thought. The shrine of Imam Ali in Najaf is a source of life. This entrance is only a small glimpse of the extravagance of this whole shrine, through it’s bright lights and intricate designs. The shrine of Imam Ali is extensive and beautiful, and it’s elegance is to account for the immense love that the Shiites and non-Shiites alike have for him and his position in the Muslim tradition.
The golden dome and entrance of the shrine of Imam Hussain. The city of Karbala today was the desert where Imam Hussain, the grandson of the Prophet Muhammad and his family were killed in battle against the Umayyad caliphate of Yazid at the time. Karbala is a landmark for historic locations, and the shrines of the companions and family of Imam Hussain are here as well. The flood of people that come towards the shrine of Imam Hussain is a form of victory for Iraqi Shiites post-Saddam. The visitation to this shrine was blocked off during Saddam Hussein’s regime. The shrine of Hussain is a place highly significant to Shiites because of the battle of Karbala and Hussain being a major saint in the school of thought. Visiting his shrine is associated with the highest of blessings and miracles and it is always packed with people.
A little boy is on the back of his father, and they are on their way to the shrine of Abbas ibn Ali in Karbala. Bringing young children to these shrines is a tradition and it shows how the love of the Prophet Muhammad and his family runs in Shia identity as parents teach their kids from an early age. Abbas is the son of Ali ibn Abi Talib and brother of Imam Hussain. He is revered and known as a brave warrior since in narrations, his arms were cut off and he was killed during the battle of Karbala when he went to get water for the children. His shrine is directly across the shrine of Imam Hussain. This image speaks to the tradition of visiting these holy shrines being passed down from generations.
The golden dome and shrine of Abbas ibn Ali at night. The shrines glowing at night are symbolic of giving life to the cities.
Details in the structure of the shrine of Imam Hussain. Repetition of muqarnas, geometric figures, shapes and patterns is a common form of Islamic Art. These designs in the Iraqi shrines have heavy Persian influence.
Details in close up.
This geometric and Arabic artwork is above one of the entrances to the shrines. The Arabic inscription translates to “gate/door of Imam of the Time”, which refers to Imam Mahdi, the 12th Shia Imam. Imam Mahdi is believed to be the savior and messiah for the end of times and the inscription referring to him as the “Imam of the Time” is because he is believed to be alive but in a hidden occultation. For Shiites, Imam Mahdi is a source of hope and guidance even in his period of hiding. Allusions to him in these shrines demonstrates his significance as an icon.
These teal domes in the distance mark the location of the ‘Khaymagah’, which refers to where the tents and battlefield of Imam Hussain and his army were during the battle of Karbala. I took this shot from one of the back entrances in the shrine of Imam Hussain. The ‘Khaymagah’ is symbolic in that all the events in the battle of Karbala that are narrated in speeches occurred in this very location 1400 years ago. From once being a barren battlefield, Karbala has become a city alive with these beautiful shrines and loads of visitors paying their respects to these holy figures and martyrs. The city is alive with movement in the day, and even at night it glows with light and constant visitors paying homage.
A cup of Iraqi tea. This was taken in a ring shop in the bazaars of Najaf. Tea is a big custom and part of Middle Eastern cultures. Almost everywhere we went, especially in bazaars and shops, were tea stands and vendors. It’s a symbol of hospitality and social life in Arab culture; especially on visitations to these shrine cities. Tea has always been a major cultural drink from around the world, and in Iraq, it’s just another way to share conversation and tradition with one another.
All photos and text by Ambarina Zenab
