DHOW
an Indian Ocean Heritage
Dhow boats are derived from the Arabic word "Daus" and refer to ancient vessels consisting of a triangular sail, which can be used to sail against or with the wind.
This typical triangular sail, also referred to as Lateen or Latin-rig, is said to have been widely used by Portuguese navigators during the colonization era, in search of new land. Several literary works and navigation journals trace the use of Dhow boats to the history of the Persian Gulf and other East African countries such as Tanzania, Madagascar and Mozambique.
This typical triangular sail, also referred to as Lateen or Latin-rig, is said to have been widely used by Portuguese navigators during the colonization era, in search of new land. Several literary works and navigation journals trace the use of Dhow boats to the history of the Persian Gulf and other East African countries such as Tanzania, Madagascar and Mozambique.
These vessels played an important role in human coastal migrations, fishing activities as well as commercial trade with other continents such as the Arabian Peninsula and the Indian subcontinent. A wide variety of Dhow boats have been recorded over the centuries, with the model being adapted to different needs, innovations and tastes. The construction is typically made entirely out of wood and requires materials and knowledge passed down from generation to generation, including the selection of wood supplies and felling of trees.
In the XIX century, the industrial revolution led by the English boosted the manufacture of steamboats, and the use of Dhow boats gradually declined. Contrary to popular belief, several east-African countries like Zanzibar continue to use the Dhow in various economic activities, including cargo transport, passenger transport and fishing.
This photographic series captures the use of this traditional vessel in the bar of Inhambane, both for artisan fishing and for newly controlled touristic activities.
These tourist activities represent an important source of income for the local population. During this small expedition, we had the opportunity to sail in a traditional Dhow of over six meters long and two meters wide, completely carved and built from wood, with hand-sewn sails.
These tourist activities represent an important source of income for the local population. During this small expedition, we had the opportunity to sail in a traditional Dhow of over six meters long and two meters wide, completely carved and built from wood, with hand-sewn sails.
We were accompanied by captain Mestre Afonso and the friendly sailing guide Bambu. We set sail at low tide from the tip of White Sand Beach, which you can find at Praia da Barra, one of the access points to the maze of navigable channels that make up the Inhambane bar.
You could see countless boats “stationed” here, or better, stranded as they float at rising tide. The channels had a depth of just over a meter, giving the impression of easy navigation, but this was far from reality. The huge number of sandbanks present made it a rather complicated navigation, even for the locals. After almost half an hour, we were stranded and had to get into the water, to detach the boat with a lot of caution, because the sand below our feet was much like quicksand, and you could easily disappear into it.
After the wind picked up slightly, we got moving again and continued sailing close to the Mangrove coastline. Passing artisanal fishing structures, Bambu explained to us that these traps are made of wood and coconut leaves and form an enclosure when the tide recedes, hence trapping the fish that came in at high tide. At low tide the men and woman would then collect mussels, crabs, and fish.
These local fisheries are inherited by generations of family men.
These local fisheries are inherited by generations of family men.
Moving on from the fisheries, Pig’s Island comes into view, so-called by the
Portuguese during their occupation of Mozambique, because they used the island
for pig farming. Currently the island has been renamed by the Mozambicans as
survivor Island, as familied fled there during the civil war (1977-1992) to escape the conflict.
Portuguese during their occupation of Mozambique, because they used the island
for pig farming. Currently the island has been renamed by the Mozambicans as
survivor Island, as familied fled there during the civil war (1977-1992) to escape the conflict.
We were amazed at the dexterity with which our skillful Captain Afonso – a man of few words – controlled the rudder with his feet while sailing with his hands. A charming dance worthy of those who know the craft.
We now pass other fishermen, using different techniques with handmade nets, we got to see men and woman equipped with nothing more than diving masks collecting mussels and clams, surprisingly coming up to the surface to look at their cell phones.
From the boat, we could see a plethora of different - colored starfish shining from the sand, a beauty that only nature can explain. Our sailor Bambu invited us to go snorkeling where the fishermen were working and see some seahorses. After warning us that nothing in the ocean is to be touched, we jumped out of the boat.
The water was generally warm, with some few colder currents to refresh us. We saw several species of fish, sea-sea urchins with awe-inspiring colors, and as Bambu promised, some tiny, camouflaged sea horses, clinging to the sea grass.
Once back into the boat, the wind had picked up and the tide was high. Our little Dhow sailed the sea at about 7 knots, much easier than when we started.
Meanwhile, Bambu explained the importance of family-owned fisheries for the area, and how they care about conserving the marine fauna, one of the reasons they don’t use motorboats and ban trawls.
Meanwhile, Bambu explained the importance of family-owned fisheries for the area, and how they care about conserving the marine fauna, one of the reasons they don’t use motorboats and ban trawls.
On the way back, we passed the fish traps, which are now almost invisible due to the high water. We continue our journey and unexpectedly, just before we enter the channel that gives access to the beach, Captain Afonso breaks his silence and points out two dolphins jumping and crossing our path, he tells us that when the tide comes in, they stay at the entrance of the channel to catch the fish entering the bay.
We say a quick goodbye while disembarking at White Sand Beach, because we must make it back before the tide completely covers the access roads, which happens around 2 p.m. every day.
In the car we reflect on the reality of Inhambane’s fishing activities, where people feel connected to their surroundings, and only take with their own hands what is necessary to eat. In the same spirit they are now trying to set up low-impact tourism activities, as a source of additional much-needed income. We wonder if an increase in tourism and super connection might be bittersweet and bring along some vices, like it has done in other places around the world, much like the diseases Europeans brought to the Americas at the time of colonization. Or maybe this will empower the people of Inhambane? I dare only say that the answer to this question belongs to the Mozambican people.
All photos were taken using 35mm film in September 2022 in the Republic of Mozambique and developed in Barcelona - Spain.
© All rights reserved to Ralf Sorgi.
